All About Sewing Machine Needles
One Size Does Not Fit All

Chances are, if you are new to sewing, you don't really know a lot about sewing machine needles. Chances also are, if you aren't new to sewing, you may have forgotten some of this. Size matters for different fabrics.

Sewing Machine Needle Sizes.

Sewing machine needles come in sizes 9, 11, 14, 16 and 18. (I'd be willing to bet that you have a size 11 in your machine right now since it seems to be considered the most common size.) However, choosing the right needle for the fabric DOES make a difference.

Fine, delicate fabrics need a small needle. Size 9 is a small needle and does not leave a large hole when making the stitch. If you are sewing on silk, organdy, chiffon or other delicate type of fabric use this needle for the best results.

Lightweight fabrics do well with a size 11. These fabrics are bastiste, velvet, taffeta and most synthetics as well as stretch fabrics.

Mediumweight fabrics will sew better with a size 14 needle. Mediumweight fabrics, like your cottons and cotton blends, are most often used by home sewers. These fabrics include linen, muslin, gingham, wool, satin, flannel, crepe. Most drapery weight material will sew better with a size 14 needle.

Medium to heavyweight fabrics such as gaberdine, tweed and some drapery fabric require a size 16 sewing machine needle.

Heavyweight fabrics need a size 18 needle. These fabrics include most denims, canvas and upholstery fabrics.

Needle Types

There are three basic types (style) of sewing machine needles: sharp point, ball point, and wedge point.

Sharp points are used on just about all woven fabrics and come in all the sizes mentioned above (9 through 18). The needle punches cleanly through the fabric and creates a nice tight stitch.

Ball points are rounded and are used on knit, elastic and spandex fabrics. The rounded point pushes through the material and keeps the needle from cutting the threads of the material as it makes the stitch. You can find ball points in sizes 9 through 16.

Wedge points are made to punch through and then close the hole it makes in the fabric as the needle lifts back up. This type was designed for use with leathers and vinyls and comes in sizes 11 through 18.

Specialty Needles

In addition to the needles mentioned above, you will also find: twin needles in various sizes which are used for topstitching and decorative stitching and wing needles which have large flared sides (like wings) used to duplicate the many special stitches relating to heirloom sewing.

One More Thing About Sewing Machine Needles

No matter what size or type of needle you use, if it is dull, bent or has an imperfection on it (called a burr) you will wind up with problems while sewing. Change your needle regularly. Change it if you hit a pin. Change it if you think it may be bent.

A dull needle can cause snags in your fabric. A bent needle can break while sewing and could be more than just an inconvenience, it could damage your bobbin case.