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Right Pattern, Wrong Fabric?
Choosing Fabric for Sewing



Choosing fabric for sewing a specific pattern is not always a sure thing!
Unless you have taken fashion design courses and have spent many hours studying fabrics (how they drape on a form, how they react to the wearer’s movements, how prints and colors affect the overall look), at some point you are going to choose fabric for a project and discover that it just doesn’t work and you are going to wish you’d never started the darn thing!

It’s not your sewing technique. The fabric just does not hang right, feel right or look right – even though you read the “suggested fabrics” listed on the back of the pattern.

All that work down the drain… you’ll never wear this! How upsetting… you vent, you may even want to cry. You declare you’ll never sew again! You think you have no talent for choosing fabric!

Guess what. You are not alone. It happens.

Ok, you may have chosen the wrong fabric for sewing THIS particular project. How can you lessen the chance of it happening again? You need to a) know your fabrics and b)ask yourself the right questions before you buy.



About Fabric

All fabric is made up of fibers. You have natural (cotton, linen, silk and wool) and synthetic (such as acetate, acrylic, glass, nylon, olefin, polyester, rayon, spandex). Fibers are then either woven or knit to produce fabric. They all have their own unique characteristics. I have compiled a basic glossary of fabrics for reference. There are many, many synthetic blends not on this list.

If you want to know more about fabrics, sewing how-to-books are a good resource as well as many websites that sell it (both retail and manufacturer). Remember, the more you know, the better you will be at choosing fabric that works for your specific projects.

Here's something else you need to remember! Whether it is a bargain two dollars a yard or you are paying top dollars for high end material, fabric RARELY goes on the bolt without some sort of minor distortion such as slight stretching, wrinkles here and there, or (most often) the selvages being uneven. Once you get it home, whether you choose to pre-wash it (depending on the fabric) or not, check for distortion.

  • If it's wrinkled, lightly iron it. Wrinkles will throw off your cutting lines.
  • If the selvages not not lined up evenly with each other, align them and then iron the piece so the fold is in the correct place and your grainline straight.
  • If the fabric has been stretched when it was wound on the bolt, you may be in for some real problems. Depending on the fabric, you might try rinsing and drying the piece to see if it will go back into shape.
This last one is rare, but I have had it happen to me and wound up having to toss half the yardage I purchased. I couldn't work with the section that had been stretched.

Ask Yourself These Questions
Before You Buy When Choosing Fabric

Is the fabric the right weight for the pattern I’ve chosen? Weight affects drape (i.e. how the material hangs on your body). Unfold a yard or two from the bolt and drape it across your arm or shoulder. See how it hangs and feels. If it helps, think about items you bought retail that are similar to your pattern choice and mentally compare them to this fabric. Also, look at the clothing catalogs you get in the mail and see what is being used in their garments. (This really will help you make better choices when choosing fabric if you are unsure what will work for different clothing styles.)

Is the color or the design on the fabric right for me? Warm, intense, light colors make things (in this case, YOU) look larger. Cool, subdued, dark colors make things (again, YOU) look smaller. That large, flamboyant design may have excited you in the fabric store and looked great on the bolt, but if you are petite, it’s going to overwhelm your proportions and the finished garment may create an unpleasant contrast to your size. Also, remember this when choosing fabric, stripes running horizontally will make you appear wider (and shorter) and stripes running vertically will make you appear slimmer (and taller).

Your choices for fabric colors, designs and types are almost endless. The more you shop around, the more you read and understand about each type, the more you sew, the more comfortable you will become in your selections. Many fabric websites will give you helpful suggestions on what types of garments or home decor will work best with the fabric you are considering.

Also, it's been said that "imitation is the sincerest form of flattery", (unless someone's trying to take over your identity) so look at pictures of styles like the pattern you have chosen and cut them out, take them with you when you are shopping for material. If you like the way the photos look, copying is a pretty good way to be sure you'll like the finished project and nobody is going to put you in fashion jail for it.

One more thing. You put a lot of time into your sewing projects. If they turn out the way you want them to, why not brag a little? Add a personalized sewing label! Let them know YOU made it!


FREE SHIPPING from Fabric.com!


For sewing or quilting fabric, try Fabric.com... Wholesale to the public! They DO take returns if you are not happy with your order.




I hope you will look around my site a while to see what's here, but I sure understand if you feel the need to jump on your web-board and go surfing for more information about fabrics and tips on choosing fabric. Just be sure to check back again to see what's been added!



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